Rizzo's House of Parm

At Rizzo's House of Parm, the breaded-and-baked plate is the organizing idea, and the kitchen builds outward from it — chicken, veal, and eggplant all arrive crusted, sauced, and run under cheese, each offered with a side of spaghetti. Parm turns up where you wouldn't expect it, too, whisked into the dip that comes with the calamari and the wings and pressed into the garlic focaccia. This is red-sauce Italian-American cooking in the Crystal Beach corner of Fort Erie, plated family-style for a table that came to share.

The parms-and-plates list is the heart of it. The chicken parm is the dish diners name first, a cutlet under tomato and bubbling cheese, with veal and eggplant versions beside it, plus a chicken piccata and a lasagna that all travel with that same side of spaghetti. The starters keep the generous register: mozzarella sticks with marinara, fried calamari with arrabbiata and a parm dip, Auntie Ang's Chicken Wings in arrabbiata with garlic parm, meatballs in pomodoro, and burrata laid over grilled focaccia. The sides run the same way — garlic-and-parm focaccia, broccolini with chimichurri, roasted rosemary potatoes. Portions run to the size that sends half the table home with a container.