W Sushi

Two of the rolls at W Sushi carry names you won't find on anyone else's menu. The W Sushi Roll is the house signature — a crisp fried-rice base under avocado, sesame seeds, and the kitchen's own sauce — and the Guelph Roll puts the city's name on the order, layering shrimp tempura, crabmeat, eel, avocado, and cream cheese beneath a slick of eel sauce. Between them they say plainly what this west-end Japanese restaurant is after: not the reverent, single-piece minimalism of a sushi bar, but a generous, built-for-the-order menu that means for a table to leave full.

The specialty-roll list runs long from there. The Spider Roll comes heavy with deep-fried soft shell crab, crabmeat, cucumber, tobiko, and avocado, while the Rainbow Roll, Black Dragon Roll, Volcano Roll, Fire House Roll, Rock n' Roll, and Mango Tango Roll each work a different balance of fish, sauce, and crunch. There is even a spicy salmon roll and a salmon sushi pizza for the table that wants something to share off-script.