Sima Sushi

The torched-salmon roll is the move Sima Sushi has built a house style around. Love Love Salmon — spicy salmon inside, a second layer of torched salmon wrapped over the top — is the most direct expression of it, and the same flame finish recurs across the specialty page on rolls like Black Dragon, Double Torched Spicy, and the deep-fried K-Rock. The restaurant cooks a focused Japanese menu out of a small Princess Street dining room in downtown Kingston, opened in 2009 by a couple who built the place around sushi, sashimi, maki, and the cooked plates that round out the page, and have held the menu to roughly the same shape ever since.

Past the torched lane, the menu carries a tighter sushi-counter spine. The Red Dragon Roll sets salmon and avocado over a California-roll base; the Crispy Crunch Roll layers shrimp tempura, crabmeat, avocado, cucumber, spicy salmon, and a tempura crisp on a single piece; the Spicy Salmon Roll and Salmon & Avocado Roll cover the cleaner combinations a first-time table usually wants on the order; the Sashimi Dinner Deluxe is the fish-forward order for a quieter night. Lunch is a separate page. Service runs from eleven-thirty to two-thirty, with miso soup and green salad included alongside the sushi, sashimi, maki, and veggie maki lunch sets, and chicken and salmon teriyaki sit on the same page for the midday table that wants a cooked plate. Yam Tempura and the avocado-cucumber roll give vegetarian diners named anchors rather than improvised sides.