La Revolución Taqueria

The order that knows what it's doing at La Revolución starts with the Quesabirrias — lamb braised birria-style, folded into tortillas with melted cheese, and sent out with a cup of consomme for dipping. From there a table widens into Tacos de Birria for the same lamb without the cheese-heavy fold, then Tacos Al Pastor, where pork, pineapple, onion, and cilantro cut a brighter line through everything richer around them. This is a Mexico City-style taqueria on Portage Road in the Stamford end of Niagara Falls, and it cooks like one: tacos and birria first, the rest of the menu built outward from there.

The grill list runs deep enough to keep a table from settling into one note. Tacos come off the parrilla in bistec, campechano (beef and chorizo together), chorizo, marinated shrimp, battered fish, and ribeye, each trio arriving with two salsas. The specialties push further: Costra Azteca wraps beef in a crisp cheese crust with flour tortillas on the side; the Alambre Para Dos piles steak or chicken with onion, red peppers, poblanos, mushrooms, chorizo, and cheese under four salsas, built for two; the Gringa works pork al pastor with cheese and pineapple, and a Burrito folds beef or chicken with peppers, onion, and cheese for anyone who wants the fillings wrapped rather than open. A Poblano Relleno carries a vegetarian build. Birria Soup pours the same shredded lamb, onion, cilantro, and chickpeas into the house consomme. Churros and a strawberry tres leches close the meal.