Silks Country Kitchen

A table at Silks Country Kitchen rarely settles on one thing. One person orders eggs and home fries at noon, another a plate of handmade pierogies, a third the meatloaf under mushroom gravy — all on the same bill, all at the same booth. The Virgil restaurant runs an all-day breakfast alongside Ukrainian house specialties and a long list of homestyle dinners, which means a table that can't agree usually doesn't have to. It takes walk-ins only, keeps no reservation book, and opens Tuesday through Sunday from eight in the morning until eleven at night.

Breakfast carries the most ground, and it runs all day. Virg's Big Breakfast lands three eggs with bacon, ham or sausage, pancakes, toast or French toast, and seasoned home fries; the Eggs Benedict stacks poached eggs and hollandaise on peameal bacon and an English muffin; the Breakfast Poutine buries home fries under scrambled eggs, cheddar, bacon, and more hollandaise. The Ukrainian house specialties are where the kitchen shows its hand. The Silks Handmade Pierogies come stuffed with potato, onion, and cheese, deep fried and finished with fried onions, bacon, sour cream, and coleslaw; the Verenaky arrive as cottage-cheese pierogies boiled and smothered in a white cream sauce. Cabbage rolls come in tomato sauce, the Wiener Schnitzel under mushroom sauce, and the Mini Smorg sets borscht, salad, schnitzel, cabbage rolls, and pierogies on one plate.