The Old Firehall Restaurant

The name is not decoration. The dining room sits inside the brick hall that served St. Davids as its fire station from 1942 until the trucks rolled out for the last time in 1985, and the kitchen has folded that history straight onto the plate. The French onion soup is billed as the Firehall and arrives under a two-cheese crust. The New York strip is named for the firefighter. The charbroiled Alberta Angus burger carries the building's name to the table.

The cooking leans Greek before it leans anywhere else. Saganaki sets the tone — kefalotiri pan-fried and finished with a flare of brandy — beside a Greek Village Salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, feta and Kalamata olives. The seafood reaches furthest in the Thalassina, a linguine crowded with little-neck clams, PEI mussels, shrimp and squid and finished in a choice of marinara, white-wine Alfredo, or olive oil and white wine. Souvlaki arrives as a marinated chicken skewer over rice pilaf with tzatziki; the lamb rack chops, listed as Lamb Chops Xenia, come under a herb jus; the calamari is grilled Aegean-style rather than battered. Even the escargots take a Greek turn, simmered with kefalotiri alongside the usual butter, garlic and white wine.