Grill on Canboro

At Grill on Canboro, all-day breakfast is a working fact rather than a line on a menu. The kitchen will send out a plate of eggs Benedict and a two-pound order of wings from the same pass in the middle of the afternoon, and it does that every day it is open. The grill sits on Canboro Road in downtown Fenwick, the small community at the centre of Pelham in Ontario's Niagara region, and it is the everyday family restaurant a town this size leans on — one kitchen working breakfast through casual dinner. Wings share the menu with fish and chips, burgers with breakfast hash, hot sandwiches with omelettes.

The wings are the natural first shared plate, sold in one- and two-pound orders and run through mild, medium, hot, honey garlic, BBQ, dry Cajun, and teriyaki, with celery, carrots, and blue cheese or ranch on the side. Fish and chips keeps the classic lane clean: beer-battered cod with fries, coleslaw, and tartar sauce, ordered as one or two pieces. From the grill come the Deluxe Burger — a third-of-a-pound patty stacked with peameal bacon, melted cheddar, a crisp onion ring, lettuce, tomato, and relish — and the house Grilled Cheese B.L.T., a triple-decker built with smoked strip bacon. Lighter orders have somewhere to go too, from buffalo cauliflower tossed in medium sauce to a power bowl of rice, avocado, olives, and mixed vegetables with chicken, shrimp, salmon, or steak added on.