Maria's Tortas Jalisco

At Maria's Tortas Jalisco, the tortillas are pressed from masa rather than pulled from a bag, and the family is firm that the difference matters. The kitchen cooks to one region — Jalisco, the western Mexican state where owner Maria Ojeda grew up in Guadalajara — and the namesake torta is where that focus is easiest to taste. It comes on a French-style bun grilled on the plancha until the crust sets, then layered with refried beans, guacamole, pico de gallo, onion and cilantro, and a filling pulled from carne asada, al pastor, chorizo, carnitas, or barbacoa. A house salsa goes on last, picked to order. Order it vegetarian and the build holds, minus the meat.

Birria is the other thing the kitchen is known for, and it arrives as Jalisco treats it: beef slow-cooked until it shreds, folded into tacos or quesatacos with melted cheese on corn tortillas, then sent out with onions, cilantro, radishes, lime, and a cup of Maria's homemade consomme for dipping. Sopa Azteca is Maria's specialty — a tomato-based tortilla soup layered with avocado, cotija and Oaxaca cheese, and crema, built with chicken or kept meatless. Goat birria turns up as well, though only as an occasional special.