Sun Hong B B Q & Seafood Restaurant

The Cantonese barbecue counter does the defining work at Sun Hong: Roasted Duck, BBQ Pork Char Siu, Crispy Roasted Pork Belly, and Soy Sauce Chicken come off it in a steady rotation that gives this west-Windsor kitchen a centre of gravity most general Chinese menus never settle into. The Roasted Meat Combination Platter is the most efficient way to take it in — order one and the whole approach arrives on a single plate, the roast-meat range that separates Sun Hong from an ordinary takeout list. The restaurant sits on Wyandotte Street West, in the University West and Sandwich Town stretch of the city's west side.

Past the roast meats, the menu runs in two more directions. The dim sum side is real rather than a token appetizer — Steamed Pork Dumplings Siu Mai, Steamed Soup Dumplings, Shrimp Har Gow, and Salted Egg Custard Buns give a table small plates with texture and variety beside the barbecue meats. The noodle lane runs parallel, with Cantonese Chow Mein, Cantonese Lo Mein, roasted-duck noodle soup, and shrimp wonton noodle soup all reading as their own order instead of filler. When a table leans heavy on roast meats and rice, Fried Squid with Spicy Salt brings the salt-and-crunch contrast that resets the rhythm of the meal.