Vittorio's Trattoria

Forest Glade is a residential pocket on Windsor's east side, an address better known for takeout than for a sit-down Italian kitchen. Vittorio's reads against type. The dining room is styled after a Tuscan table, and the menu runs the length of a classic Italian repertoire — antipasto, pasta, veal, Napoletana pizza — with the house signature pressed into it at almost every turn. The main most diners learn first is Chicken di Vittorio: chicken breast layered with asparagus, prosciutto, and gnocchi under an asiago cream sauce, a plate the kitchen named after itself rather than borrowing from anyone else's menu.

The pizza program is where that personalizing instinct shows most. Twenty-five Napoletana-style pies run from the orthodox to the inventive. The Margherita keeps to form — bocconcini, basil, a twelve-inch round — while La Vespa, the bee sting, stacks spicy salami, banana peppers, and sausage under a thread of hot honey. The Glade builds a house super out of pepperoni, mushroom, bacon, and green peppers; the Peach & Prosciutto runs ricotta, balsamic glaze, and honey across summer fruit; the Fiorentina finishes with arugula and prosciutto over bocconcini, and the Calabrese leans hot with spicy salami, chili flakes, and a finish of spicy oil. For dessert the same oven turns out a full Nutella pizza, soft dough under a sheet of warm hazelnut spread.