Curious diners get plenty to work with here: pakhala thalis, Dahi Bara with Ghuguni, Crab Curry, Fish Kabiraji, Chhena Poda, Kasha Mangsho, and Kolkata-style biryani all push beyond the safest curry-and-naan lane.

Curious diners have more to chase than the usual comfort order: boat noodle, Drunkard's Fish, Massaman Beef Curry, papaya salad, and Khao Soi all open different paths.

Adventurous diners get their opening through breadth rather than shock value. The strongest path is to move past a taco-only order into arepas, pupusas, empanadas, flautas, tamales, plantains, and tres leches.

A strong order when familiar comfort still needs Jamaican staples such as ackee, oxtail, jerk plates and festival dumplings.